Installing Motorcycle Drive Chain
Part three

 After the chain has drained wipe any excess off with a clean rag. Raise the rear wheel off the ground and put transmission in neutral. Loosen the axle nuts and loosen the chain adjuster nuts far enough out so as to move the rear wheel assembly as far forward on the swing arm as possible. My tire could only go so far forward as it stopped against the fender so my axle still had enough slot left, a 1/4 inch or so, still showing. Remove old master link from old chain. Take chain loose from bottom of rear sprocket but leave top of chain on the top of sprocket. Put some newspaper, or something, on ground under the rear wheel of bike so new chain does not get dirty. Attach one end of the new chain to the end of the old chain on top of sprocket using the old Master link. In the picture the new chain is to the left and old chain on the right with master link and plate attached. No need to put the retaining clip on here.  

 New chain on the left with high tech screwdriver pointer, old on the right. This is why you want newspaper on the ground to protect new chain from any dirt getting on it. The old chain is still around the front counter sprocket at this point. Note: This is a right hand drive setup so we will be pulling the old chain from the bottom and as it pulls through, threads the chain,  it will pull the new chain around with it. This way you do not need to remove the counter sprocket chain cover

 Here the new chain is completely around both sprockets and the old chain and master link has been removed. My new chain was 14 links to long so with both ends overlapped I marked the spot so as to remove the extra un-needed links. I use to have a chain breaker tool but it was stolen along with $1000 worth of my other tools. Before I had a chain breaker I would use a hack saw to saw off the needed end of the pin and drive it through with a small phillips head screwdriver. That was the old days, today I have a dremel with a cutoff wheel so I used it to cut he end of the pin off, then used a small appropriate size punch to drive out the pin. What ever you use make sure it is small enough to drive out the pin link without destroying the little bearing in the chain.

With the excess links removed install the new master link and retaining clip. A good set of needle nosed pliers was used to set the master link clip. I needed both hands to do this so no picture. The open end of the master link clip should always point to the rear of the motorcycle no matter which side your drive chain is on. Save the old master link if still in good condition to keep on the bike, in a tool pouch, clipped through a button hole of your favorite riding vest or jacket so it is always with you when riding. Wear it around your neck on a chain for coolness factor and always handy and you'll always been known as "The missing link."

I really should have zoomed out more on some of these. Plus, I need to find my camera book so I can do videos.

Note: Some chains do not use a master link and you will need a special link tool to press pins in and out when installing the chain. You can get one for my type of chain to aid in removing the extra links, save those extra links and those of your friends and you can use the tool to make those leftover new links into a whole chain.

(End of part Three)