Monday, August 02, 2010

Harley Still Won't Start

Here is what I have so far, plugs gaped at .028, new relay, new solenoid, new points set at .018 and new condenser. New carburetor that was set and running great last time she ran. Getting plenty of fuel but I flooded it trying to start so removed and cleaned plugs...again. Checked plugs for spark and have a nice blue spark and plenty of pop when turning over. New coil as old one was shot and actually has a large crack in the side. The primary side of coil was sporadic and the secondary side was completely dead. New coil is 5 ohms on the primary side and 16000+ on the secondary side.

But now even with a shot of either she doesn't do anything about trying to start. What the hell. How could it be running beautifully one day then flat nothing the next.


Willy D said...

Wish I had that bike. It’s my favorite kind…stubborn! You’re saying you’ve got spark at the plugs, but is it at the right time? Pull the advance unit (fly-weights) out from behind the points and check for wear. Just take off the center bolt that the point cam rides on with the 9/16 head. The unit will come right out. There’s a alignment pin so you can’t screw it up. You have checked the timing, right?

WooleyBugger said...

Willy, No I have not checked the timing, how could it just screw up that quick with no prior symptoms all of a sudden like? But I was afraid it would be another electrical problem because this bitch knows electrical is my weakest point.
I was reading up on taking the plate off to get to the weights, do I have to take off everything, points, condensor before I can remove the plate or just the one center bolt. I'm worried I might be getting in over my head here and never get it back right.

Willy D said...

Yes, it’s all got to come out. Rear tire off the ground. Put it in 4th gear. At the base of the cylinders on the left, right between them, there’s a Allen head plug, pull it. Turn the back tire by hand (remove spark plugs) till you see the timing mark in the hole. Should be a line and a dot. Not sure which on it is on your bike. Should be easy to tell, the points should just start to open when the mark in the center. You can move the point plate if needed. This will be close enough to run pretty good.

You can leave everything on the point plate, just unhook the wire. Remove the two screws and pull the plate out. Use a big flat-tip to remove the studs the screws were in. Pull the bolt out of the point cam. Don’t worry if the cam is stuck a little, probably is, just use pliers or pry it a bit. You can’t hurt it much. The point cam has a pin so it will only go on one way. Small lobe front cyl., big lobe rear cyl. Point gap should be within .04 on both lobes. Check the weights and springs. Should be pretty snug. Quick way – are the weights scraping the inside of the case? If so they’re worn. If you’ve got weak springs or the mount holes on the weights or wallowed out and they’re flopping around, that would explain funky cranking. Trying to advance the timing at the wrong RPM.

If this still sounds like a bunch of gobbly-goop, I remember seeing a few good 3-4 minute videos on u-tube. Should be easy to find.

Damn! I wish you could get pictures!

WooleyBugger said...

Thanks again Willy, wish I lived closer when this mess crops up. Electronics, as I have said before , is definately my weak point but I'm getting a crash course eh. Got to get myself a camera as I have dropped hints at Christmas, Fathers Day and my birthday but do ya think they listen.

Willy D said...

Crate it up and ship it to me. Not C.O.D.

WooleyBugger said...

Ahhh come on Willy, I just sent out a primary cover to a guy in need for free, I even paid the shipping charges to Ohio.